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Achroma mort4/25/2023 ![]() She agrees that the denim, and wider fashion industry, must work together to create sustainable dye solutions.Today, (bio-)analytical researchers use various software tools for improving data analysis and the evaluation of their experimental results. For example, it uses dyes made from agricultural and herbal waste, including leaves and nutshells, as well as dyes made from plants, on products with smaller production runs. The brand focuses on circularity, working with mills and manufacturers using a variety of innovative dyeing and finishing technologies. ![]() Producing the most sustainable clothing possible was a key focus for Jessica Gebhart, founder of sustainable denim brand I and Me, which sells direct to consumers and via stockists including Our Daily Edit and Albion. It’s a challenge the industry is really embracing, and it’s a very dynamic, exciting field.” “We’re working with chemical companies to produce indigo that washes down more easily, and formulations that are specially designed to work well with lasers, which are a more sustainable way to finish denim. “There is a lot of innovation around the chemicals and dyestuffs used in denim to try to cut water, energy and chemical consumption,” he says. “Although some aniline has been found on some final pairs of jeans, especially dark, unwashed rigid styles, we are more focused on worker protection – they are often exposed to high concentrations of indigo through the manufacturing process – and also on the environment, where discharge of denim mills with aniline could affect the aquatic life.”ĭavid Rumsey, UK sales director at sustainable denim mill DNM, which is based in Egypt, argues that collaboration between different parts of the fashion and denim industry is crucial when it comes to finding more sustainable dyeing methodologies. In addition, the range is produced in our zero-effluent manufacturing plant in Pakistan. “During the Archroma hydrogenation (pre-reduction) process, we have developed a way to create an indigo product without aniline. “Most of the indigo on the market today contains aniline, which is a class 2 carcinogen and has acute aquatic toxicity,” explains Cowell. To combat these issues, Archroma produces Denisol Indigo – a liquid indigo that is reduced using hydrogen, so lower quantities are required to achieve the same depth of shade, and it does not discharge chemicals into wastewater. The reduction process of traditional powder indigo requires potentially harmful chemicals, which can lead to sulphites and sulphates being introduced to wastewater. This process is repeated until you get to the required depth.”ĭipping and skying, he adds, can use extensive amounts of water and energy. “As a result, indigo must be reduced into a water-soluble state and then painted on to the fibre in a process known as dipping and skying to achieve a deep shade. “Denim has a very unique dyeing process: indigo is not soluble in water and does not have any affinity for the fibre in its natural state,” explains Paul Cowell, global head of Textile Competence Centers at colour chemicals specialist Archroma. Once infamous for polluting rivers, dangerous chemicals and wasting water, the denim industry is also making strides towards more sustainable dyeing techniques and processes. ![]() When we first started, the range of colours was slightly limited, but now there are more and more colours available.” Instead, we decided to use water-based eco-friendly synthetic dyes that are certified by the Soil Association. Natural dye sounds great, but you often have to use other chemicals to ensure they last a long time, which is counter-intuitive. “However, producing larger batches with natural dyes can be difficult, as they’re less reliable. Swedish retailer H&M Group last year introduced a collection of garments dyed using plant-based pigments and lower-impact processes. ![]() In June, Primark announced it would expand its partnership with recycled cotton producer Recover, to produce a range called RColorBlend produced by blending coloured recycled fibre from textile waste. The internet abounds with images of waterways turned all colours of the rainbow from textile dyeing, often with serious consequences for aquatic life, local communities and the wider environment.Īs fashion comes under increasing pressure to act on climate change and environmental damage, retailers and brands are seeking more sustainable dyeing solutions. The industry would be a dull place without dyeing – but this complex process can go hand in hand with a variety of serious environmental issues, from excessive water wastage to hazardous chemicals. Lime green, brilliant fuchsia, zingy tangerine – fashion trends in 2022 have been dominated by colourful clothing.
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